All articles
Education
September 17, 2026
10 min read
Dr Olena Ivchenko

Exosomes in aesthetic medicine: what we know and what we do not know

Exosomes are one of the most talked-about, and at the same time one of the least clearly explained, topics in aesthetic medicine in recent years. If you are considering this treatment, you need specifics: what these particles actually are, what human studies show, what their legal status is in the European Union, and how much it costs. Below you will find answers based on scientific publications and official documents, without promises that the data cannot support.

What are exosomes?

Exosomes are very small vesicles released by cells, surrounded by a lipid bilayer. Descriptions typically give a range of 30 to 150 nanometers. They carry proteins, lipids and nucleic acids, including microRNA, which cells use to communicate with each other. They are not cells: they have no nucleus and cannot multiply.

Formally, these are described as small extracellular vesicles, meaning, according to the MISEV2023 guidelines, vesicles below 200 nanometers. The same guidelines advise against calling every particle of this size an exosome, because that term should apply only to a particle with confirmed endosomal origin, and routine isolation methods do not verify this. So exosome is, to a large extent, a colloquial and commercial name. We continue to use it in this article because that is how it is referred to in clinics, while keeping in mind that a vial usually contains a mixture of vesicles and proteins.

The most important difference concerns stem cells. An exosome preparation does not contain living cells, only the products of their activity. An exosome is a courier, not a cell: it does not rebuild anything itself, it only passes a signal to skin cells. That is why describing such a treatment as stem cell therapy is simply inaccurate.

Where do the preparations used in clinics come from?

Aesthetic literature describes several sources, and they differ not only in biology but also in legal status.

Human: from adipose tissue stem cells, mesenchymal cells, skin fibroblasts, or from platelet extract
Plant: for example from Asian centella (Centella asiatica) or from plant cell cultures
Animal: described for example as derived from bovine colostrum, which is a manufacturer's claim, not a result of clinical studies
Synthetic: exosome-like nanovesicles, produced in a laboratory and studied separately

The commercial form is usually the same: a lyophilisate, that is a powder dissolved just before the treatment, less often a ready-made ampoule or serum.

Origin has practical significance, including legal significance, and descriptions of the same preparation are sometimes inconsistent across different websites. That is why it is worth asking directly about the origin of the material before agreeing to the treatment. Claims such as several or several dozen billion exosomes per vial come from manufacturers, no one independently verifies them, and the number of vesicles itself does not translate into the treatment outcome.

How do exosomes work on skin and hair?

The mechanism described in dermatology is intercellular signalling. Exosomes deliver proteins and microRNA to fibroblasts, which may stimulate them to synthesize collagen, and may also affect inflammatory factors and collagen-degrading enzymes such as MMP-1 and MMP-3. An effect on the MITF pathway, meaning melanin production, has also been described, which explains the interest in exosomes for hyperpigmentation.

Exosomes studied in the context of the scalp are obtained, among other sources, from hair papilla cells, meaning the tissue that controls the hair growth cycle. This is the basis for the idea of using such preparations for hair loss.

One caveat is essential here. Most of these mechanisms have been described in cell cultures and in animal studies. The fact that a particle does something in a test tube does not yet mean it will do the same thing in your skin. That is why, in the following sections, we look not at the mechanism but at the results in humans.

The route of application also matters. In Polish clinics the preparation is usually applied only after a procedure that temporarily opens the epidermal barrier. Preparations applied twice daily to intact skin were also studied: a study with 21 participants over 8 weeks and a study with 56 participants over 6 weeks reported skin brightening and reduced melanin. However, we know both results from a literature review, not from the original publications, so treat them as a signal, not as proof.

Cosmetic, not medicine: what the FDA and EU regulations say

In December 2019 the US FDA issued a public safety notification concerning exosome products. It stated directly that no FDA-approved exosome product exists. The reason was reports of serious adverse events in patients in Nebraska who had been given unapproved preparations advertised as containing exosomes. The situation has not changed since then.

In the European Union, no exosome product has been found registered as a medicinal product or as an advanced therapy medicinal product (ATMP). The preparations used in clinics operate as cosmetics or as products sold exclusively to professionals. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products excludes ingredients of human origin from cosmetics: cells, tissues and products of human origin are listed in Annex II, meaning the list of prohibited substances. Plant material is permitted as long as it does not act pharmacologically.

The most important practical conclusion follows from this. No available preparation is registered for injection, which is why industry publications describe such administration as off-label use. The literature describes, following such injections, persistent erythema, nodules, granulomatous inflammation and scarring, and in one case report, skin necrosis. The standard and best-studied form is application to the skin after a procedure that opens the epidermal barrier. In clinical studies it was well tolerated, but these studies involved small groups and short follow-up, so they do not settle the question of long-term consequences.

It is worth knowing where the descriptions of complications come from. The published case series are Korean or Middle Eastern, and not a single one has been described from Poland so far, which does not mean none occurred, only that none have been collected. It was also not possible to find a position from Polish authorities that addresses exosomes in aesthetic medicine directly, so patients must rely on general regulations and on what a given clinic can tell them about the preparation.

What does the scientific research show?

Human studies already exist, they just need to be read carefully.

A 2026 meta-analysis covered 39 clinical studies in humans. Pooled results reported a reduction in facial wrinkles of around 20 percent and an increase in hair density of around 24 percent. The authors themselves note limitations: high heterogeneity of preparations and protocols, small groups, a predominance of open-label and non-randomized studies, and short follow-up, usually 6 to 12 weeks.
Post-acne scars, a 2020 study with 25 participants, split-face, double-blind. Three sessions of fractional CO2 laser, with an additional exosome gel on one side of the face. The improvement in the scar scale was 32.5 percent versus 19.9 percent on the control side. The preparation was supplied by the manufacturer. Recovery time differed by 0.2 days, meaning a few hours.
Comparison with platelet-rich plasma, 2025, 15 participants, of whom 14 completed the study. RF microneedling on both sides of the face, plasma on one side, exosomes on the other. Both sides improved comparably, both clinically and on histological examination. The study was funded by the exosome manufacturer.
Hair, a 2025 systematic review, 11 studies and 298 participants. The increase in density ranged from around 9.5 to 35 hairs per square centimeter, but only two studies were randomized, and most had no control group.

A fair conclusion from this data is: the direction is promising, the effects are moderate and measured over a short period, the quality of evidence is low to moderate, and preparations from different brands are not comparable with each other. Review authors also consistently point out what is missing: standardization of production, an agreed dose and frequency of administration, and comparisons with methods of proven efficacy.

Who are exosomes for? Indications and contraindications

The indications for which exosome preparations are most often studied and used include photoaging and fine lines, uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation, post-acne scars, and skin regeneration after fractional laser and after RF microneedling. A separate area is hair loss, which we write about in the article on Fotona HAIRestart laser hair loss treatment.

Contraindications collected from treatment descriptions are as follows:

Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Active cancer
Active skin infection in the treatment area
Autoimmune diseases
Tendency to form keloid scars
Diabetes, especially uncontrolled diabetes, and heart disease
Isotretinoin within the last 6 months, as well as treatment with steroids or retinoids
Allergy to any ingredient of the preparation

Note that the lists of contraindications differ between clinics. This in itself shows that there is no standard yet in this area, which is why the decision is always made by a doctor after a medical history and skin assessment.

After the treatment itself, transient symptoms have been described: pain, redness, swelling and small crusts, usually resolving within a week, and on the scalp, irritation and temporary redness. Studies of topical application did not report serious adverse events, but they involved small groups and short follow-up, so they say nothing about long-term consequences.

What does the treatment look like step by step?

An exosome treatment at a clinic usually has two parts: a method that opens the epidermal barrier, and a preparation applied right after it. The delivery method can be microneedling, RF microneedling or fractional laser, most often a CO2 laser in studies.

The visit usually proceeds as follows: consultation and qualification, cleansing and disinfection of the skin, a topical anaesthetic cream if needed, the delivery procedure, and finally the dissolved lyophilisate spread over the freshly treated skin. The whole visit takes 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the area. Clinics recommend a series of 3 to 5 treatments, some even up to six, spaced 1 to 2 weeks apart.

Recovery depends above all on the procedure after which the preparation is applied. After light microneedling, redness lasts from a few hours to a day. After fractional laser it lasts an average of several days, and in the study using a CO2 laser it was around four days. After RF microneedling, transient symptoms usually resolve within a week. Claims of a treatment with no downtime apply only to the mildest variant. Study data also relate to specific devices, most often a CO2 laser, and do not automatically transfer to other lasers.

Post-treatment recommendations developed separately for exosomes have not been published. Clinics usually apply the same recommendations as after microneedling: gentle skincare, a high sun protection factor, and avoiding make-up, sauna, swimming pool and intense exercise for the first few days. The doctor determines the final set of recommendations, since it depends on the device used and on the condition of your skin.

Results: when they appear and how long they last

In clinical studies, measurements were taken at 4, 8 and 12 weeks, and significant differences were usually reported after 8 to 12 weeks. Clinics often promise a visible effect after the very first session, but studies do not confirm this.

How long does the effect last? This is not known. Follow-up in most studies ends at 6 to 12 weeks, and data beyond 12 months are lacking. A single case with an effect maintained after 21 months has been described, but that is one patient, not proof. If someone assures you that the result will last two years, that goes beyond what has been studied.

It is also not known how often the series needs to be repeated to maintain the result. None of the cited studies checked this, and the protocols used in clinics are based on practice, not on data.

Exosomes vs PRP, polynucleotides, skin boosters and nidosomes

Platelet-rich plasma, or PRP: the only direct comparison with exosomes, a 2025 study on 15 people, gave an equivalent result. Neither method proved superior. However, PRP has a longer history of research and comes from the patient's own blood, so the question of foreign material origin does not arise with it.

Polynucleotides and PDRN: purified DNA fractions given by injection, used for years in Europe and Asia, with a well-established safety profile. There is no study comparing them directly with exosomes, so any statement about which works better is an opinion, not data.

Skin boosters and collagen biostimulators: skin boosters are hydrating preparations injected into the skin and absorbed over a few months, while collagen biostimulators leave material in the tissue that triggers a controlled reaction and remodeling. Exosomes applied to the skin are purely a biological signal, with no deposit, so they do not replace either method and do not produce a volumizing effect.

Nidosomes: capsules of hyaluronic acid and peptides with extended release, given by microinjection, which we describe in more detail in the article on nidosomes. This is a different mechanism and a different route of administration. We did not find peer-reviewed publications on nidosomes, and there are no studies comparing them with exosomes at all, so the comparison stops at a description of how each works.

Needle mesotherapy: a cocktail of active substances given by injection. An exosome treatment is, in practice, microneedling mesotherapy plus a preparation, so these methods are not interchangeable.

How much do exosomes cost?

We give gross prices from clinics' published price lists. They fall into a few ranges.

Face with microneedling: around 1,600-2,800 PLN
Face with laser or RF microneedling: around 2,500-4,000 PLN
The preparation alone as an add-on to a treatment: around 1,200-1,500 PLN, including application
Individual promotional offers: from around 700 PLN per area

Clinics usually do not publish prices for scalp treatments, so you need to ask about them before your visit.

The final bill depends on the area, the type of delivery procedure, the brand of the preparation and the number of sessions. The last factor matters most, because the recommended series is usually 3 to 5 treatments. So calculate not the price of a single visit but the cost of the whole series, and when comparing offers, ask whether the quoted amount includes the preparation or only the delivery procedure. Prices between clinics can differ several times over, and a higher price does not mean a better-documented preparation.

What should you pay attention to before the treatment?

Before you decide, go through this checklist.

Origin of the preparation: ask whether the material is plant-based, human or animal, and ask for the product name
Form of application: the preparation should be applied to the skin, not injected
Who qualifies you: the medical history, skin assessment and decision about the treatment belong to the doctor
What must not be promised: FDA approval, stem cell therapy, DNA repair or a permanent effect
Product information: ask to see the packaging, ingredient list and batch number, and if the clinic refuses, treat it as a warning sign
Contraindications: they should be discussed with you, not just signed on a form
Alternatives: ask what better-documented treatment could solve the same problem

A clinic that answers these questions calmly and specifically gives you a real basis for your decision.

Regenerative treatments at SCS CLINIC

An exosome treatment is not currently part of the SCS CLINIC offering.

During the consultation, the doctor assesses the condition of your skin and selects a regenerative treatment from the methods available at the clinic: platelet-rich plasma, nidosomes, medical mesotherapy, skin boosters, collagen biostimulators, Morpheus8 RF microneedling and Fotona laser treatments. The consultation includes a medical history, an assessment of skin condition and a discussion of contraindications, and on this basis a treatment plan is created with the number of sessions and the intervals between them.

If you are considering exosomes at another clinic, a consultation still makes sense. We will discuss what you can expect after such a treatment, what to ask before it is performed, and what the alternatives are. You can book a consultation via Booksy.

Sources

• Welsh J.A. et al., MISEV2023, guidelines for research on extracellular vesicles, Journal of Extracellular Vesicles, 2024: link
• FDA, Public Safety Notification on Exosome Products, official notice, 2019: link
• European Commission, CosIng database, entry 416 of Annex II to Regulation 1223/2009: cells, tissues or products of human origin: link
• Stack E.R. et al., systematic review with meta-analysis of clinical studies, Aesthetic Surgery Journal, 2026: link
• Kwon H.H. et al., exosomes with fractional CO2 laser for post-acne scars, Acta Dermato-Venereologica, 2020: link
• Estupiñan B. et al., exosomes versus platelet-rich plasma, split-face study, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2025: link
• Al Ameer M.A. et al., exosomes and hair regeneration, systematic review, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2025: link
• Park K.Y., adverse events after injection of exosome preparations, case series, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2025: link
• AlBargawi S., skin necrosis after injection of lyophilized exosomes, case report, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2025: link

Frequently asked questions

Are exosomes stem cells?

No. Exosomes are small vesicles released by cells, without a nucleus and without the ability to divide. The preparation does not contain living stem cells, only the products of their activity.

Does an exosome treatment hurt?

The sensation depends mainly on the procedure after which the preparation is applied: microneedling, RF microneedling or fractional laser. Clinics use a topical anaesthetic cream for these, and the preparation itself, applied to the skin, is not felt.

When do results appear and how many treatments are needed?

In studies, significant differences were reported after 8 to 12 weeks. Clinics recommend a series of 3 to 5 treatments spaced 1 to 2 weeks apart, some even up to six, and the doctor decides on the number of sessions after assessing the skin.

Are exosomes safe and legal in Poland?

Neither in the European Union nor in the USA is there an exosome product registered as a medicine or approved for injection. Application to the skin after microneedling was well tolerated in studies, while nodules, granulomas, scarring and skin necrosis have been described after injections.

Exosomes or PRP: which to choose?

In the only direct comparison, from 2025, on 15 people, both methods performed equivalently. PRP has a longer history of research and comes from the blood of the patient, so with an equal result it is sometimes the better-documented choice.

Can exosomes be combined with other treatments?

In clinics, the preparation is most often applied right after a procedure that opens the epidermal barrier: microneedling, RF microneedling or fractional laser. The doctor decides on the order and intervals between treatments.

Considering a regenerative treatment?

Book a consultation at SCS CLINIC in Wrocław. The doctor will assess your skin and recommend the treatment suited to your case.